{"id":26387,"date":"2016-11-20T00:24:36","date_gmt":"2016-11-20T05:24:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/en\/?p=26387"},"modified":"2016-11-20T00:24:36","modified_gmt":"2016-11-20T05:24:36","slug":"torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/en\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\/","title":{"rendered":"Toronto&#8217;s Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">When Country Style Hungarian Restaurant, a venerable schnitzel house on Bloor Street West, shut its doors earlier this summer, rumours quickly began circulating in Toronto\u2019s food-o-sphere about its demise.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-26389\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-600x338.jpg\" alt=\"country-stylemain\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-600x338.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-200x113.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-400x225.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN.jpg 620w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Which wouldn\u2019t have been such a surprise. After all, the 54-year-old Annex institution is the last survivor in a stretch once known as the goulash archipelago, with eateries such as The Coffee Mill, Marika\u2019s, Csarda House, The Blue Danube Room, Continental and Korona. The owners have mostly retired or died.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">This particular closure turned out to be not only temporary, but a kind of reboot. The interlude allowed owner Katalin Koltai to do a stem-to-stern renovation, the first real overhaul since 1975. The restaurant reopened late last month.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Still, as Ms. Koltai said after the lunch-hour rush one day this week, all the speculation was a concern: \u201cWe were afraid we would not be getting people back.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">But the city\u2019s greatly relieved schnitzel aficionados have returned, in droves.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">The facelift cost her more than $150,000 and is meant to secure the business so that Ms. Koltai\u2019s daughter, also named Katalin, can take over when she retires. The work included new kitchen equipment, counters, chairs, bathroom fixtures and even a digital cash register to replace the restaurant\u2019s antiquarian push-button version.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Most conspicuously, the bulky refrigerated dessert display case that dominated the front has been replaced with large and inviting picture windows, as well as a couple of street-facing tables.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">What hasn\u2019t been updated: the kitschy Communist-era tourist posters of Budapest that adorn the walls, and, crucially, the menu, which features Magyar staples such as cabbage rolls, goulash, palascinta and the \u201cwooden plate\u201d \u2013 a veritable steppe of fried meat, potatoes and pickled beets.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u201cWe didn\u2019t change anything,\u201d Ms. Koltai stressed, noting that Country Style Hungarian serves about 400 Frisbee-sized schnitzels each week, as well as 20 wooden plate specials on a typical weekend. \u201cThe food is the same as 30 or 40 years ago.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">The restaurant dates back to the early 1960s, a time when many of the thousands of Hungarian refugees who came to Toronto after the 1956 revolution were living in and around the Annex. The second owner, Alex Pataki, expanded the eating area, which included a row of counter stools at the front that were habitually occupied by his most regular customers.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ms. Koltai, who came to Canada in 1971, worked in a bank for five years before opening the Hungarian Rhapsody in Yorkville. She sold it a few years later and went to work for Mr. Pataki in 1981. After leaving for a brief period in the mid-1980s, she returned in the late 1990s and bought the business outright in 2001.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Country Style Hungarian, which has sustained generations of hungry university students, has also been a favourite of visiting food writers looking for Toronto\u2019s authentic ethnic fare. \u201cEverything comes in two portions,\u201d a Chicago Sun-Times scribe noted admiringly in 1991. \u201cLarge, and very large.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Toronto\u2019s restaurant scene, of course, has changed utterly since Country\u2019s Style Hungarian\u2019s early years, when its menu was considered exotic but also emblematic of the city\u2019s emerging multiculturalism.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ms. Koltai, however, has no intention of modernizing the menu or incorporating whatever might pass as <em>nouvelle<\/em> Hungarian cuisine. Asked where she fits into the city\u2019s food scene, Ms. Koltai offered a shrug and a smile. \u201cI have no idea,\u201d she replied. \u201cSome people say the homemade cooking. We start to work early in the morning every day to put fresh food on the table for our customers.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>John Lorinc, a freelance writer, has been eating at Country Style Hungarian for over 40 years.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\">Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/news\/toronto\/country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-with-untouched-traditional-menu\/article32930317\/\">theglobeandmail.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">When Country Style Hungarian Restaurant, a venerable schnitzel house on Bloor Street West, shut its doors earlier this summer, rumours quickly began circulating in Toronto\u2019s food-o-sphere about its demise.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-26389\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-600x338.jpg\" alt=\"country-stylemain\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-600x338.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-200x113.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-400x225.jpg 400w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN-500x281.jpg 500w, https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN.jpg 620w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Which wouldn\u2019t have been such a surprise. After all, the 54-year-old Annex institution is the last survivor in a stretch once known as the goulash archipelago, with eateries such as The Coffee Mill, Marika\u2019s, Csarda House, The Blue Danube Room, Continental and Korona. The owners have mostly retired or died.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">This particular closure turned out to be not only temporary, but a kind of reboot. The interlude allowed owner Katalin Koltai to do a stem-to-stern renovation, the first real overhaul since 1975. The restaurant reopened late last month.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Still, as Ms. Koltai said after the lunch-hour rush one day this week, all the speculation was a concern: \u201cWe were afraid we would not be getting people back.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">But the city\u2019s greatly relieved schnitzel aficionados have returned, in droves.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">The facelift cost her more than $150,000 and is meant to secure the business so that Ms. Koltai\u2019s daughter, also named Katalin, can take over when she retires. The work included new kitchen equipment, counters, chairs, bathroom fixtures and even a digital cash register to replace the restaurant\u2019s antiquarian push-button version.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Most conspicuously, the bulky refrigerated dessert display case that dominated the front has been replaced with large and inviting picture windows, as well as a couple of street-facing tables.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">What hasn\u2019t been updated: the kitschy Communist-era tourist posters of Budapest that adorn the walls, and, crucially, the menu, which features Magyar staples such as cabbage rolls, goulash, palascinta and the \u201cwooden plate\u201d \u2013 a veritable steppe of fried meat, potatoes and pickled beets.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u201cWe didn\u2019t change anything,\u201d Ms. Koltai stressed, noting that Country Style Hungarian serves about 400 Frisbee-sized schnitzels each week, as well as 20 wooden plate specials on a typical weekend. \u201cThe food is the same as 30 or 40 years ago.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">The restaurant dates back to the early 1960s, a time when many of the thousands of Hungarian refugees who came to Toronto after the 1956 revolution were living in and around the Annex. The second owner, Alex Pataki, expanded the eating area, which included a row of counter stools at the front that were habitually occupied by his most regular customers.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ms. Koltai, who came to Canada in 1971, worked in a bank for five years before opening the Hungarian Rhapsody in Yorkville. She sold it a few years later and went to work for Mr. Pataki in 1981. After leaving for a brief period in the mid-1980s, she returned in the late 1990s and bought the business outright in 2001.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Country Style Hungarian, which has sustained generations of hungry university students, has also been a favourite of visiting food writers looking for Toronto\u2019s authentic ethnic fare. \u201cEverything comes in two portions,\u201d a Chicago Sun-Times scribe noted admiringly in 1991. \u201cLarge, and very large.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Toronto\u2019s restaurant scene, of course, has changed utterly since Country\u2019s Style Hungarian\u2019s early years, when its menu was considered exotic but also emblematic of the city\u2019s emerging multiculturalism.<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\">Ms. Koltai, however, has no intention of modernizing the menu or incorporating whatever might pass as <em>nouvelle<\/em> Hungarian cuisine. Asked where she fits into the city\u2019s food scene, Ms. Koltai offered a shrug and a smile. \u201cI have no idea,\u201d she replied. \u201cSome people say the homemade cooking. We start to work early in the morning every day to put fresh food on the table for our customers.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\" style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em>John Lorinc, a freelance writer, has been eating at Country Style Hungarian for over 40 years.<\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"selectionShareable\">Source: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/news\/toronto\/country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-with-untouched-traditional-menu\/article32930317\/\">theglobeandmail.com<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":26388,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[166],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26387","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-news"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Toronto&#039;s Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact &#8211; Bocskai R\u00e1di\u00f3<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/en\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Toronto&#039;s Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact &#8211; Bocskai R\u00e1di\u00f3\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"When Country Style Hungarian Restaurant, a venerable schnitzel house on Bloor Street West, shut its doors earlier this summer, rumours quickly began circulating in Toronto\u2019s food-o-sphere about its demise.  Which wouldn\u2019t have been such a surprise. After all, the 54-year-old Annex institution is the last survivor in a stretch once known as the goulash archipelago, with eateries such as The Coffee Mill, Marika\u2019s, Csarda House, The Blue Danube Room, Continental and Korona. The owners have mostly retired or died. This particular closure turned out to be not only temporary, but a kind of reboot. The interlude allowed owner Katalin Koltai to do a stem-to-stern renovation, the first real overhaul since 1975. The restaurant reopened late last month. Still, as Ms. Koltai said after the lunch-hour rush one day this week, all the speculation was a concern: \u201cWe were afraid we would not be getting people back.\u201d But the city\u2019s greatly relieved schnitzel aficionados have returned, in droves. The facelift cost her more than $150,000 and is meant to secure the business so that Ms. Koltai\u2019s daughter, also named Katalin, can take over when she retires. The work included new kitchen equipment, counters, chairs, bathroom fixtures and even a digital cash register to replace the restaurant\u2019s antiquarian push-button version. Most conspicuously, the bulky refrigerated dessert display case that dominated the front has been replaced with large and inviting picture windows, as well as a couple of street-facing tables. What hasn\u2019t been updated: the kitschy Communist-era tourist posters of Budapest that adorn the walls, and, crucially, the menu, which features Magyar staples such as cabbage rolls, goulash, palascinta and the \u201cwooden plate\u201d \u2013 a veritable steppe of fried meat, potatoes and pickled beets. \u201cWe didn\u2019t change anything,\u201d Ms. Koltai stressed, noting that Country Style Hungarian serves about 400 Frisbee-sized schnitzels each week, as well as 20 wooden plate specials on a typical weekend. \u201cThe food is the same as 30 or 40 years ago.\u201d The restaurant dates back to the early 1960s, a time when many of the thousands of Hungarian refugees who came to Toronto after the 1956 revolution were living in and around the Annex. The second owner, Alex Pataki, expanded the eating area, which included a row of counter stools at the front that were habitually occupied by his most regular customers. Ms. Koltai, who came to Canada in 1971, worked in a bank for five years before opening the Hungarian Rhapsody in Yorkville. She sold it a few years later and went to work for Mr. Pataki in 1981. After leaving for a brief period in the mid-1980s, she returned in the late 1990s and bought the business outright in 2001. Country Style Hungarian, which has sustained generations of hungry university students, has also been a favourite of visiting food writers looking for Toronto\u2019s authentic ethnic fare. \u201cEverything comes in two portions,\u201d a Chicago Sun-Times scribe noted admiringly in 1991. \u201cLarge, and very large.\u201d Toronto\u2019s restaurant scene, of course, has changed utterly since Country\u2019s Style Hungarian\u2019s early years, when its menu was considered exotic but also emblematic of the city\u2019s emerging multiculturalism. Ms. Koltai, however, has no intention of modernizing the menu or incorporating whatever might pass as nouvelle Hungarian cuisine. Asked where she fits into the city\u2019s food scene, Ms. Koltai offered a shrug and a smile. \u201cI have no idea,\u201d she replied. \u201cSome people say the homemade cooking. We start to work early in the morning every day to put fresh food on the table for our customers.\u201d John Lorinc, a freelance writer, has been eating at Country Style Hungarian for over 40 years. Source: theglobeandmail.com\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/en\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Bocskai R\u00e1di\u00f3\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BocskaiRadio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2016-11-20T05:24:36+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/11\/country-styleMAIN.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"620\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"349\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Csibi Lor\u00e1nd\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@BocskaiRadio\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@BocskaiRadio\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Csibi Lor\u00e1nd\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/10edfc7ddc0e006131357c2bcb81b96b\"},\"headline\":\"Toronto&#8217;s Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact\",\"datePublished\":\"2016-11-20T05:24:36+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":614,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2016\\\/11\\\/country-styleMAIN.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"News\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.bocskairadio.org\\\/en\\\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\\\/\",\"name\":\"Toronto's Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact &#8211; 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Bocskai R\u00e1di\u00f3","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.bocskairadio.org\/en\/torontos-country-style-hungarian-reopens-doors-traditional-menu-intact\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Toronto's Country Style Hungarian reopens doors with traditional menu intact &#8211; Bocskai R\u00e1di\u00f3","og_description":"When Country Style Hungarian Restaurant, a venerable schnitzel house on Bloor Street West, shut its doors earlier this summer, rumours quickly began circulating in Toronto\u2019s food-o-sphere about its demise.  Which wouldn\u2019t have been such a surprise. After all, the 54-year-old Annex institution is the last survivor in a stretch once known as the goulash archipelago, with eateries such as The Coffee Mill, Marika\u2019s, Csarda House, The Blue Danube Room, Continental and Korona. The owners have mostly retired or died. This particular closure turned out to be not only temporary, but a kind of reboot. The interlude allowed owner Katalin Koltai to do a stem-to-stern renovation, the first real overhaul since 1975. The restaurant reopened late last month. Still, as Ms. Koltai said after the lunch-hour rush one day this week, all the speculation was a concern: \u201cWe were afraid we would not be getting people back.\u201d But the city\u2019s greatly relieved schnitzel aficionados have returned, in droves. The facelift cost her more than $150,000 and is meant to secure the business so that Ms. Koltai\u2019s daughter, also named Katalin, can take over when she retires. The work included new kitchen equipment, counters, chairs, bathroom fixtures and even a digital cash register to replace the restaurant\u2019s antiquarian push-button version. Most conspicuously, the bulky refrigerated dessert display case that dominated the front has been replaced with large and inviting picture windows, as well as a couple of street-facing tables. What hasn\u2019t been updated: the kitschy Communist-era tourist posters of Budapest that adorn the walls, and, crucially, the menu, which features Magyar staples such as cabbage rolls, goulash, palascinta and the \u201cwooden plate\u201d \u2013 a veritable steppe of fried meat, potatoes and pickled beets. \u201cWe didn\u2019t change anything,\u201d Ms. Koltai stressed, noting that Country Style Hungarian serves about 400 Frisbee-sized schnitzels each week, as well as 20 wooden plate specials on a typical weekend. \u201cThe food is the same as 30 or 40 years ago.\u201d The restaurant dates back to the early 1960s, a time when many of the thousands of Hungarian refugees who came to Toronto after the 1956 revolution were living in and around the Annex. The second owner, Alex Pataki, expanded the eating area, which included a row of counter stools at the front that were habitually occupied by his most regular customers. Ms. Koltai, who came to Canada in 1971, worked in a bank for five years before opening the Hungarian Rhapsody in Yorkville. She sold it a few years later and went to work for Mr. Pataki in 1981. After leaving for a brief period in the mid-1980s, she returned in the late 1990s and bought the business outright in 2001. Country Style Hungarian, which has sustained generations of hungry university students, has also been a favourite of visiting food writers looking for Toronto\u2019s authentic ethnic fare. \u201cEverything comes in two portions,\u201d a Chicago Sun-Times scribe noted admiringly in 1991. \u201cLarge, and very large.\u201d Toronto\u2019s restaurant scene, of course, has changed utterly since Country\u2019s Style Hungarian\u2019s early years, when its menu was considered exotic but also emblematic of the city\u2019s emerging multiculturalism. Ms. Koltai, however, has no intention of modernizing the menu or incorporating whatever might pass as nouvelle Hungarian cuisine. Asked where she fits into the city\u2019s food scene, Ms. Koltai offered a shrug and a smile. \u201cI have no idea,\u201d she replied. \u201cSome people say the homemade cooking. We start to work early in the morning every day to put fresh food on the table for our customers.\u201d John Lorinc, a freelance writer, has been eating at Country Style Hungarian for over 40 years. 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